Published December 19, 2024 | Updated April 14, 2026

Before opening her landmark restaurant in Omaha’s original Italian neighborhood, Caterina Malara had to travel across the world and suffer the tragic loss of her husband.

Located at 22nd and Pierce Streets, Malara’s restaurant was tucked away in the city’s first Italian enclave. When it opened, it was flanked by two longtime neighborhood businesses: Josephine’s Cozy Corner Lounge on the west and Rotella’s Italian Bakery on the east.

Born Caterina Baldanza in Calabria, Italy in 1935, she married her childhood crush, Luigi Malara, and the couple moved to Buenos Aires, Argentina. There they operated a small bakery while living close to his family.

The family came to Omaha in 1964 to care for her mother, Maria Baldanza. Soon after, Luigi found work at Rotella’s. He was tragically killed at work in 1967 when an oven exploded. Passing away at just 34 years old, he left behind his wife and four young daughters.

Caterina spoke little English and never imagined her life without her husband, but she vowed to do whatever was required to keep her family together. With a $6,000 insurance settlement, she bought a house in the Columbus Park neighborhood. A talented cook, she started selling homemade ravioli and pasta out of her basement. She also sold ravioli and sausage at the Summer Arts Festival. A talented seamstress as well, she made her daughters’ wedding dresses. She also made money babysitting children in the area.

She only opened her restaurant after a Douglas County Health inspector showed up and informed her that selling food from her home wasn’t allowed. Her daughter Carmela married James Rotella in 1974, which I suspect led the bakery to offer her a spot at the western end of its building. The tragic death of Luigi within the tight-knit community was likely another factor.

Her dream came true in 1984 when she opened the doors to Malara’s Italian Restaurant at 2123 Pierce Street. This particular building is steeped in history, having been the birthplace of not only Rotella’s but Orsi’s Italian Bakery before that. When it first opened, the restaurant operated primarily as a takeout spot serving sandwiches from a to-go window.

While the first year proved to be a struggle and the restaurant nearly closed, Caterina persisted and successfully expanded the business into a dine-in establishment. Malara’s was truly a family-owned operation, with all four daughters, Carmen, Maria, Gracie and Anna, helping in the kitchen, waiting tables and managing the business. With their mothers at work, Malara’s grandchildren played in the basement.

When Rotella’s was looking to build and move into a larger facility in 1988, they offered her the first opportunity to purchase the building. While she didn’t have the money, a family friend of the Malaras purchased it and allowed her to make payments on it.

As its reputation grew, the restaurant became a romantic getaway for some and started to draw a wider crowd. It expanded three times over the years, including moving into the adjacent Scarpello’s bar to the east, which allowed it to expand seating to 23. With the expansions, the small area on the western end where the takeout business started was turned into a bar, the middle section became the dining room and the east end housed the kitchen.

When the restaurant abruptly closed in 2023 after Caterina passed away, it was one of the last remaining old-school Italian restaurants in South Omaha. Malara’s was a favorite not only for residents of the area but also for a number of city employees including firefighters, police officers, city council members and judges. It was known for its large homemade portions and classic dishes including lasagna, eggplant parmesan, pasta carbonara, tortellini, ravioli, pizza, seafood and steaks.

Built in 1910 by Samuel Mancuso, the old building at 2123 Pierce Street seems poised to find new life yet again after a recent sale. No announcement has been made on what its use will ultimately be. Either way, it was a remarkable journey for a woman who created one of the city’s most beloved Italian restaurants.

Have you been to Malara’s? What was your experience or what do you miss most? I’d love to hear what you have to say so feel free to leave a comment. Until next time, keep exploring!

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