Omaha Exploration

Located at 22nd and Pierce Streets, Caterina Malara’s restaurant was tucked away in the city’s first Italian enclave. When it opened it was flanked by two longtime neighborhood businesses: Josephine’s Cozy Corner Lounge on the west and Rotella’s Italian Bakery on the east.  

Born as Caterina Baldanza, she was born in Calabria, Italy in 1935. After marrying her childhood crush, Luigi Malara, the couple moved to Buenos Aires, Argentina. There they operated a small bakery while living close to his family. 

The family came to Omaha in 1964 so that they could care for her mother, Maria Baldanza. Soon after Luigi found work at Rotella’s. He was tragically killed at work in 1967 when an oven exploded. Passing away at just 34 years old, he left behind his wife and four young daughters. 

Carterina spoke little English and never imagined her life without her husband, but she vowed to do whatever was required to keep her family together. With a $6,000 insurance settlement, she bought a house in the Columbus Park neighborhood. She was a talented cook and started to sell homemade raviolis and pasta out of her basement. She also sold ravioli and sausage at the Summer Arts Festivals. Also a talented seamstress, she even made her daughter’s wedding dresses. When she wasn’t doing those things, she also made money babysitting children in the area. 

Caterina only opened her restaurant after a Douglas County Health inspector showed up and informed selling food from her home wasn’t allowed. Her daughter Carmela married James Rotella in 1974 which I suspect led the bakery to offer her a spot at the western end of its building. The tragic death of Luigi within the tight-knit community was likely another factor.

Her dream came true in 1984 when she opened the doors to Malara’s Italian Restaurant at 2123 Pierce St. This particular building is steeped with history having been the birthplace of not only Rotella’s but Orsi’s Italian Bakery before that. When it first opened, it operated primarily as a takeout restaurant that served sandwiches from a to-go window.

While the first year proved to be a struggle and the restaurant nearly closed, Caterina persisted and successfully managed to expand the business and turn it into a dine-in establishment. Malara’s was truly a family-owned business with all four of her daughters (Carmen, Maria, Gracie and Anna) helping in the kitchen, waiting tables, managing the business side of the restaurant and so on. With their mothers at work, Malara’s grandchildren played in the basement. 

When Rotella’s was looking to build and move into a larger facility in 1988, they offered her the first opportunity to purchase the building. While she didn’t have the money, a family friend of the Malara’s purchased it and allowed her to make payments on it.

As its reputation grew, the restaurant which was a romantic getaway for some started to become more popular. It expanded three times over the years including moving into the adjacent Scarpello’s bar to the east which allowed it to expand its seating area to 23. With the expansions, the small area on the western end where the takeout business started was turned into a bar while the middle section was the dining room and the east end was the kitchen. 

When the restaurant abruptly closed in 2023 after Caterina passed away, it was one of the last remaining old-school Italian restaurants in South Omaha. Malara’s was a favorite for not only the residents of the area but also of a number city employees including firefighters, police officers, city council members and judges. It was popular for its large homemade portions and classic dishes including lasagna, eggplant parmesan, pasta carbonara, tortellini, ravioli, pizza, seafood and steaks.

Built in 1910 by Samuel Mancuso, it seems the old building at 2123 Pierce Street will find new life yet again as it was recently sold. I haven’t seen an announcement on what its use will ultimately be.

Have you been to Malara’s? What was your experience or what do you miss most? I’d love to hear what you have to say so feel free to leave a comment. Until next time, keep exploring!

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