Updated: February 10, 2025
Just east of 60th and Center Streets is a small, distinct building that is among Omaha’s oldest bars. Located at 5915 Center, the building with its thick stucco had a terracotta roof when James L. Hartsock built it in 1927. It first opened as a grocery store called West Lawn Market that converted to Red & White, a chain of small, independently owned grocery stores in 1931. After prohibition was repealed, it started its long life as a bar called the Fan Tan Club.
After serving in the Army, James returned home and worked as a brander in the stockyards before opening the Mid-Night Frolic Club at 5909 Center Street with his wife Mabel. That establishment offered dancing from 6 PM to 4 AM and served chicken, steak and barbecue for those who had worked up an appetite. This venture appears to have been short-lived as it was operating as Dorsey’s Chicken Shack by 1929.
By 1935, the Hartsock’s filed for a liquor license in order to open Fan Tan Club. It seems that the name may have been inspired by a card game more commonly known as Sevens. The game, it seems, was often played at the bar by the wives of men who went to nearby Aksarben for the races.
After remodeling the bar in 1940 and adding its wonderful neon sign, it became a source of controversy when its bartender was charged with selling a quart of whiskey to five minors from the 4-H Club. Apparently one of the teenagers was found wandering four miles away. The incident resulted in the bar temporarily losing its liquor license. It isn’t the last time the bar would find itself in trouble with the law.
With its live music and dancing, the place must have been popular not to mention loud as 24 neighbors attempted to get its dance permit revoked and its liquor license suspended in 1941. After neighbors protested the renewal of its license the following year, it was ultimately approved after the protests were withdrawn. James and Mabel continued to operate the bar until 1949 when it was sold Harold M. Eaton. After that Russell G. Lewis took over around 1957 followed by Laverne Petersen in 1963.
1941 advertisement on the left and 1981 advertisement on the right.
In addition to frequent changes in ownership, the bar was a frequent target for thieves. In one incident, a janitor was trapped in the basement after thieves rolled the safe out and pushed a jukebox down the stairs blocking the exit. The janitor only escaped by crawling up a dumbwaiter shaft.
Shortly after taking over, Laverne was arrested when the police seized slips containing 73 horse racing bets. Fan Tan like other nearby bars including Trackside Lounge and Turf Club were a popular stop for the horse racing crowd – and bettors – due to its close proximity to Aksarben. Fan Tan, in particular, was also a popular hangout for jockey’s competing in the races. The charges resulted in the bar temporarily losing its liquor license once again.
After Lorna Brooks took over in 1981 it had become Lorna’s Fan Tan Club. During her tenure, the small club was preparing oysters on the half shell and boiled shrimp from what had to be a tiny kitchen. The bar got caught up in a gambling raid again in 1985 after it was discovered that it was as the headquarters of a large bookmaking operation that was pulling in $50k-$75k in bets each month. It should be pointed out that in 1986 Lorna also took over 20th Street Liquor on 20th and Leavenworth Streets.
The problems at Fan Tan didn’t end there. Following up on reports of nude dancing inside the bar, the police paid it a visit in 1990. When they arrived, the front and back doors were locked and the windows covered. Once the officers were finally allowed in, three women and one man were apprehended. The situation caused the state to review its liquor license, and the bar was sold one year later.
I’m not sure at what point Lorna left the Fabulous Fan Tan but she took ownership of it once again in 2006 – only after behind robbed at gunpoint and pistol-whipped at her liquor store two years earlier. While Lorna passed away in 2018, the Fan Tan continues to operate in its longtime home.
Judging from the outside, it’s clear that the building has seen better days but amazingly, it is still standing and despite numerous changes in ownership continues to operate as the Fan Tan Club. While it’s not the oldest bar in town, it is one of Omaha’s most distinct and well-known dives!
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