Rusty Harmsen’s Spaghetti Works

August 29, 2023

After launching Mister Toad in 1970, Rusty Harmsen and his partner Artie Abariotes returned to the Old Market to open Spaghetti Works in the eastern half of the Ames Block on 11th and Howard. Built in 1890, the massive five story building was originally built for M.E. Smith Company which was the largest manufacturer and wholesaler of dry goods in Omaha. After that it was used by Lieben & Sons costume shop and the Oar House restaurant.

Early photo of the Ames Block with M.E. Smith in the eastern half of the building long before Spaghetti Works moved in. The loading dock wasn’t added until later.

In 1975 the Old Market didn’t offer much in the way of low-cost dining options so when the Oar House moved out, the partners sought to fill the void by opening the new restaurant. Due to the prevalence of Italian restaurants serving spaghetti, the idea wasn’t well received initially. What set it apart, however, were the variety of sauces and all-you-can eat spaghetti. This combination proved to be popular allowing the restaurant to expand its hours and to add additional seating.

Recent photo of Spaghetti Works Old Market location.

Like he did with Mister Toad, Rusty adorned the restaurant with artifacts from his vast personal collection. It contained an assortment of antiques and signs in addition to a 1922 Ford Model T which was converted into a salad bar. Other unique items included the key box from the Old Castle Hotel, an antique iron-and-nickel stove that was fashioned into a waiters station, an old bank safe that was repurposed into a phone booth, chairs from safe deposit box viewing areas and a British phone booth.

Cafe Eggspress sitting on the train tacks alongside Spaghetti Works.

Rusty even saw an opportunity to utilize the defunct train tracks that ran along the old warehouse loading dock that sat outside of Spaghetti Works entrance. He purchased a 1924 Union Pacific railroad car on the cheap and parked it out front. After adding table tops from the old Woodmen of the World building and making other modifications, he opened Express-O in 1975. The railcar-turned-coffee house served a small menu of coffee, tea and desserts. In order to replicate the outdoor experience at Mister Toad, Rusty won city approval to serve sandwiches and other cold food made from the dining car to customers on the loading dock in 1976. He then added a kitchen in 1978 when he noticed a lack of breakfast options downtown and renamed it Eggspress.

Raised seating area along Howard St at Spaghetti Works.

While limited functionality and deterioration resulted in the railcar being used as an event space for private parties before being sold in 2004, Spaghetti Works thrived. The concept worked so well that it expanded beyond the Old Market to Lincoln, Ralston, Des Moines, Kansas City and Sioux Falls. Even though many of these locations have since closed, the original Old Market location remains just as popular today as it was when it opened its doors in 1974.

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